The journey begins part 4 - Sri Chinmoy's Music

The Xiao ('Sho') - Ancient Chinese Bamboo Flute.

High in the sacred mountains of Huashan west of Xian in western China, we trekked to the summits of a number of massive granite towers that form part of a rugged mountain range of over 2,100 metres in height. In these remote and isolated alpine regions, high above the farmlands below, Taoist monks and nuns practise their ancient meditative disciplines, as they have done continuously for over 3,000 years.

Living a solitary life in isolated temples perched precariously close to the edges of these vertical rock towers, many of these humble devotees have lived in these mountains for more than forty years. Chinese history records that generations of Chinese Emperors continued their summer schooling high in these wind-swept mountains, trekking great distances to study with these revered scholars.

Down in the valley below we entered the main temple complex after passing beneath an ornate gate-way that lead us along a climbing pebbled pathway. Climbing still higher we passed over narrow stone bridges, built over a clear mountain stream, then higher into the cold mountain air as we passed by ancient temples still carrying the weight of winter snow.

Continuing our trek we entered a narrow valley, winding its way deeper into the rock masses . Frozen waterfalls held by the freezing temperatures, hung above us like a pale blue curtain. Dwarfed by the sheer height of the slabs of rock that towered above us we quickly  climbed onto a much steeper and narrrower track, hand chiseled into the solid granite bedrock. These steps continue all the way to the top of the highest summits, testimony to the hundreds of years of peasant labour who chiseled these narrrow secure foot-holds. As we steadily climbed pausing only to catch our breath and take in the vista, we noticed much higher above us further temples.

Some of the track sections are nearly vertical, a similiar experience to climbing a ladder. In these precarious areas lengths of hand-forged chains are fixed to steady yourself as you slowly climbed, carried loads or rested. In places the track is also extremely narrow as it passes between vertical rock slabs, here the pathway walls have been chiseled wider for safe climbing.

All construction materials for the temples were carried by back up this steep track by peasant labourers. This timeless tradition still continues today as all supplies for the monks and nuns are still hand-delivered this way. On the day we climbed we stood aside as two peasant farmers each carrying an overly large hand-carved  wooden lounge chair roped to their backs passed us on their ascent, a days labour for AUS$20 for the climb - we wondered how they managed to squeeze between the narrower sections!

High on the sheer rock-slabs shrines have been chiseled into the solid rock face. Beginning as a small arched entrance-way they open into a large domed room, complete with shrine, Taoist figurines, and a simple wooden bed. These shrines have an intricately carved ceiling and bare walls. Outside overly-large engraved Chinese caligraphy characters mark the entrance. To excavate these shrines labourers would lower themselves hundreds of meters by hand-made rope down the vertical faces from the summits above. For the monks access to these exposed shrines is now up vertically chiseled foot-holds while grasping the safety-chains.

On my second visit to these alpine heights it began to snow, the peaks and valleys surrrounded by mist and swirling wind-driven snow. Climbing alone in the cold mountain air close to the highest temples I suddenly heard the hauntingly beautiful sound of a flute. I paused for a while and after clearing the snow away from a granite boulder, I sat and quietly listened. This was a most serene moment, for here in the peaceful mountain atmosphere removed from the world and surrounded by fresh falling snow, I quietly meditated allowing the sound of the echoing flute to lift me into a sublime and deep silence.  Judging by the depth of snow that had fallen onto my jacket, this experience continued for some time.

Continuing on and eager to find where the flute was being played I rounded a bend and saw a Taoist monk sitting quietly at his shrine playing his meditative bamboo Xiao. Undisturbed by my presence he continued, I smiled and quietly turned away continuing my journey into the falling snow, carrying the haunting sounds of this instrument deep inside my heart.

On my return to Xian I was given one of these flutes by a fellow student of Sri Chinmoy's. I was so thrilled with the kindness and generosity of this gesture, it meant so much to me, the richness of the whole mountain experience, the monks and their simple lives instantly came back to me. But I had never played a musical instrument before, but I wanted so much to learn!

So back in Australia, I looked up the internet and learnt how to play some basic tunes using simple fingering positions. One of these songs is a beautiful Chinese folk-song called - Dragon Childen, its still one of my favourites, because it embodies the whole China experience. I had the pleasure of playing the Xiao for some family members, a Chinese student was present at this family gathering. After I nervously finished playing the student very excitingly stood up and yelled in broken English 'Dwagon Child', I nearly fell over, she actually recognised what I was playing, or perhaps she was being very polite, I think the latter, still it was a lot of fun!

What better way to continue the meditative mood of the Xiao, than to now learn how to play Sri Chinmoy's meditative music. I can't begin to describe the total joy and delight this now gives me. I play for  approx.1 hour each day, learning more and more songs. Simple they are with my very limited musical capacity, but nontheless, it has enabled me to access a deeper aspect of my spiritual self, and it has given me a totally new understanding of Sri Chinmoy's spontaneous capacity to compose and play. Now each time I play, I invoke a deep awareness of the silence and tranquility of the mountains which opens me to the vastness and heights of Sri Chinmoy's music.

My spirituality
Is my heart's
Morning flute.

-Sri Chinmoy-

Who would have thought that it would take a trip to China, then a trek into the sacred mountains of Huashan and then a 'chance' meeting with a Taoist monk playing the Xiao to help me appreciate the overwhelming joy and beauty of Sri Chinmoy's music - I guess I'm a bit slow!!

Thank you Sri Chinmoy for your whole China experience and the simple bamboo flute that has brought so much into my life, and the total simplicity, beauty and power of your music.

I remain eternally grateful to you.

Gratitude, gratitude Sahayak.

Further research on the Xiao has found that it is one of the oldest Chinese instruments found in excavations throughout S.W. China, dating back around 3,000 years. Approximately the same length of time the Taoists have been living in these sacred mountains!